Guide 4 min read

How to start retinal without wrecking your face

Two nights a week, one pump, on dry skin, with your barrier cream over it or under it as a buffer, and sunscreen every morning. Hold that for a month before adding nights. The 1998 trial found 0.05% retinaldehyde as effective as prescription retinoic acid with less irritation, and a 1994 series found 0.1% well tolerated for up to three years. Slow is still the way.

Which strength should you start with?

The one you have, used less often. In the 2026 split-face study of 56 women, 0.1% and 0.05% retinal were compared for 24 weeks; both improved dermal density and elasticity, the wrinkle result was more pronounced at 0.1%, and adverse effects were minimal. The 1994 tolerance series found 0.1% and 0.05% on facial skin well tolerated and used for up to three years. Frequency is the dial to turn, not the percentage. Two nights a week of 0.1% is gentler than nightly 0.05% and gets you to the studied level.

What does the first month look like?

A schedule, not a sprint.

  • Weeks one and two: two nights, not consecutive. One pump on dry skin. Baby's Bottom over it.
  • Weeks three and four: three nights if there is no stinging. Flaking is allowed; stinging is not.
  • Month two: add a night every two weeks as tolerated. Many people stop at four or five and stay there.
  • Every morning throughout: sunscreen. Retinoids increase photosensitivity.

What is the retinal sandwich, and does it work?

Barrier cream, then retinal, then barrier cream again. It slows the retinal down on purpose by putting a lipid layer between it and your skin, which is useful in the first weeks and unnecessary later. There is no trial of the sandwich in our ledger, so call it practice rather than proof. It is safe practice: squalane is in both Coming of Age and Baby's Bottom, and the lipid system in the cream has no conflict with retinal. Use it while your skin is adjusting, then drop the bottom slice.

What is normal adjustment, and what is a problem?

Dryness, some flaking and mild redness in the first few weeks are the retinoid doing its job; the 1994 work measured the increased epidermal turnover directly. Stinging that lasts, burning, swelling, or redness that spreads beyond where you applied it is not adjustment. That is the signal to pause for a week, use the barrier cream twice a day, and restart at one night a week with the sandwich. In the 1998 trial retinaldehyde was well tolerated throughout, while the prescription retinoic acid group had enough irritation to affect compliance. Less irritation is the reason to prefer retinal; it is not a reason to rush it.

Does moisturizer go before or after retinal?

After, normally: retinal onto dry skin, a minute, then Baby's Bottom. Before, as a buffer, when your skin is adjusting or sore. Both work. The only wrong answer is skipping the cream entirely, because a retinoid on an unsupported barrier is how people decide retinoids are not for them.

What should you keep away from retinal nights?

Exfoliating acids and benzoyl peroxide, on the same night. Compounding irritation has no evidence of compounding benefit. Put them on the other nights, or shelve them for the first month. The pairing is not forbidden in the literature: a 2009 study used retinaldehyde with glycolic acid deliberately in adult acne. It is just not for a face that is still learning the retinoid.

  • Same night, fine: cleanser, peptides, barrier cream.
  • Other nights: acids, benzoyl peroxide.
  • Never: skipping sunscreen the next morning.

What we made with it

Coming of Age is 0.1% stabilized retinal with squalane, unfragranced, one job. Baby's Bottom is the buffer and the seal. Clean Slate keeps the wash out of the argument. Start slow, stay consistent, and judge it at 18 to 24 weeks, which is when the studies did.

Related questions

My skin is irritated from retinal. What should I do?

Pause for a week and use Baby's Bottom morning and night. Then restart at one night a week with the cream applied before and after the retinal. Add a night every two weeks. If it stings again at one night a week, stop and ask a dermatologist rather than pushing through.

Can I use retinal under my eyes?

Carefully, and not at first. Start with the rest of the face for a month. Then bring a small amount to the orbital bone, not the lid, with the barrier cream over it. The skin there is thinner and shows irritation first.

How long before retinal shows results?

Texture first, over weeks. Wrinkles at 18 to 24 weeks, which is where the 1998 and 2026 trials measured, and still improving at 44 weeks in the 1998 study. Judge it on that calendar, not on the first month, which is mostly adjustment.

Sources

  1. Creidi P, et al. Profilometric evaluation of photodamage after topical retinaldehyde and retinoic acid treatment. J Am Acad Dermatol 1998;39:960-965. PMID 9843009
  2. Deda A, et al. Comparative evaluation of topical stabilized retinaldehyde 0.1% vs. 0.05% on skin biophysical and biomechanical parameters. Skin Res Technol 2026;32:e70326. PMID 41729119
  3. Saurat JH, Didierjean L, et al. Topical retinaldehyde on human skin: biologic effects and tolerance. J Invest Dermatol 1994;103:770-774. PMID 7798613
  4. Dreno B, Castell A, et al. Interest of the association retinaldehyde/glycolic acid in adult acne. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol 2009;23:529-532. PMID 19192015